Safety snapshot of mobile work before merging upstream chat-v2: - Qortino AI: QDN pack discovery/download (Q-Share ids), external app storage, install validation, teach/report Q-Mail, PDF thumbs+zoom - Android share target "Quitter" with native ShareReceiver plugin - Categorized device saves (Images/Videos/Audio/Documents/Apps/GO state) - createNamedFile helper: cordova-plugin-file clobbers global File Co-authored-by: Cursor <cursoragent@cursor.com>
81 lines
4.2 KiB
Markdown
81 lines
4.2 KiB
Markdown
# Seed Starting, Step by Step
|
|
|
|
## Why start from seed
|
|
|
|
Seeds cost a fraction of transplants, offer hundreds of varieties shops never
|
|
carry, and let you start the season weeks early. In a self-reliance context,
|
|
seed-starting skill plus saved seed is food security you can hold in one jar.
|
|
|
|
## Easy first crops
|
|
|
|
Learn on forgiving species before fussy ones. Easy from seed: lettuce,
|
|
spinach, basil, tomato, pepper, cucumber, broccoli, dill, cilantro; among
|
|
flowers: sunflower, calendula, marigold, nasturtium, zinnia. Some crops
|
|
prefer direct sowing outdoors and resent transplanting: beans, peas, root
|
|
vegetables (carrot, beet, radish, parsnip), and squash in mild climates —
|
|
their packets say "direct sow".
|
|
|
|
## Equipment that matters
|
|
|
|
- **Containers:** anything 5-8 cm deep with drainage holes — purpose trays,
|
|
yogurt cups, paper pots, egg cartons (shallow; transplant early). Clean
|
|
reused containers with hot soapy water and a dilute bleach rinse.
|
|
- **Medium:** a fine, sterile seed-starting mix — never garden soil or used
|
|
potting soil indoors (weeds, fungus gnats, and damping-off fungus come
|
|
with them). Pre-moisten the mix to "wrung-out sponge" before filling.
|
|
- **Light:** the make-or-break input. A south window is marginal at
|
|
mid-latitudes and hopeless in a northern winter; simple LED grow lights
|
|
hung 5-10 cm above the seedlings, on a timer for 14-16 hours (they need
|
|
dark rest too), produce stocky plants. Raise the light as plants grow.
|
|
- **Heat:** most seeds germinate fastest at 18-24 °C soil temperature;
|
|
peppers and tomatoes like the warm end (a heat mat or the top of a warm
|
|
appliance helps). After germination, slightly cooler air grows sturdier
|
|
plants.
|
|
|
|
## The sowing process
|
|
|
|
1. **Time it from the last frost date.** Packets say "start indoors X weeks
|
|
before last frost" — count backward on a calendar. Typical: tomatoes and
|
|
peppers 6-8 weeks, brassicas 4-6, cucumbers and squash only 2-4 (they
|
|
grow fast and sulk when root-bound).
|
|
2. **Sow at the right depth.** Rule of thumb: 2-3x the seed's diameter.
|
|
Tiny seeds and light-requiring seeds (lettuce, many herbs and flowers)
|
|
are pressed onto the surface. Sow 2 seeds per cell for insurance.
|
|
3. **Cover for humidity** with a clear dome or plastic wrap until sprouts
|
|
appear, then remove it immediately — trapped humidity after germination
|
|
invites disease.
|
|
4. **Water from below:** set cells in a tray and pour water into the tray;
|
|
the mix wicks it up without disturbing seeds or wetting leaves. Let the
|
|
surface dry slightly between waterings.
|
|
5. **Thin ruthlessly:** snip (don't pull) the weaker of the two seedlings
|
|
at soil level once true leaves appear. Crowded seedlings all lose.
|
|
6. **Feed after true leaves:** seed mixes are nearly nutrient-free; begin
|
|
half-strength liquid feed (fish emulsion, seaweed, or balanced organic)
|
|
when the second set of leaves — the "true leaves" — arrives, weekly
|
|
thereafter.
|
|
7. **Air movement:** a small fan on low, or brushing your hand over
|
|
seedlings daily, thickens stems and prevents fungal problems.
|
|
|
|
## Troubleshooting (the classic failures)
|
|
|
|
- **Nothing germinated:** soil too cold and wet (seed rotted — dig one up:
|
|
soft and swollen means rot), too dry, sown too deep, or seed too old.
|
|
- **Seedlings toppled at the base overnight:** damping-off fungus. There is
|
|
no cure once it strikes; prevention is sterile mix, clean containers,
|
|
bottom watering, and airflow.
|
|
- **Leggy, pale, stretched seedlings:** insufficient light, sometimes plus
|
|
too much warmth. More light, closer light, cooler room.
|
|
- **Purple leaf undersides on tomatoes:** phosphorus hunger or cold roots —
|
|
feed properly and warm them.
|
|
- **Surface mold:** overwatered — hold water a few days, add airflow, or
|
|
repot.
|
|
|
|
## Hardening off (do not skip)
|
|
|
|
Indoor seedlings placed straight into sun and wind get scorched and
|
|
flattened. Over 7-10 days, move them outside to a sheltered, part-shade
|
|
spot for a few hours, increasing sun and exposure daily, indoors or covered
|
|
at night at first. A cold frame — any low box with a clear lid — automates
|
|
this and extends the season at both ends. Transplant on a calm, overcast
|
|
day or evening, water in well, and protect from wind the first days.
|