GO-3.0/tools/qortino-knowledge/docs/survival/bushcraft-field-skills.md

# Bushcraft and Field Skills

*Educational overview of traditional outdoor skills. Practice in safe,
legal settings before you ever need them. Not a substitute for hands-on
training or professional rescue.*

## The 5 C's of survivability

A widely taught bushcraft framework (popularized by Dave Canterbury) for what
to carry because it is hardest to reproduce in the field:

1. **Cutting tool** — a fixed-blade knife of decent carbon steel; the single
   most important item.
2. **Combustion** — ferro rod plus lighter, and prepared tinder.
3. **Cover** — tarp or emergency blanket, wool layer, rain protection.
4. **Container** — a single-wall metal bottle or pot you can boil in.
5. **Cordage** — paracord or bankline for shelter, repairs, and traps where
   legal.

Extensions add cotton bandana, candle, compass, cargo tape, canvas needle.

## Rule of threes

Rough survival priorities: about 3 minutes without air, 3 hours without
shelter in harsh exposure, 3 days without water, 3 weeks without food. In
cold, wet climates like the North Atlantic, shelter and fire outrank
everything else — hypothermia kills far faster than hunger.

## Fire

Reliable fire is preparation, not sparks: collect tinder (birch bark, fatwood
shavings, dry inner bark), then pencil-thin twigs, then finger- and
wrist-thick fuel, before striking anything. Build on dry ground or a platform
of sticks, protect from wind, and feed gradually. Carry two ignition sources
minimum; a ferro rod works wet and cold when lighters fail.

## Shelter

Site selection first: out of wind, off low ground where cold air and water
collect, away from dead standing trees. The fastest effective shelter is a
tarp in an A-frame or lean-to with insulation underneath you — ground
conduction steals more heat than air. Snow and debris shelters work but cost
sweat; avoid soaking your clothing while building.

## Water in the field

Prefer flowing water; collect upstream of activity. Boiling is the most
reliable treatment. Filters handle bacteria and protozoa; chemical treatment
or boiling covers viruses. In winter, melt snow with a little liquid water in
the pot to avoid scorching, and never eat snow directly in cold conditions —
it lowers core temperature.

## Navigation and signaling

Tell someone your route and return time before heading out. Carry a compass
and paper map even with GPS. If lost: stop, stay warm, make yourself visible.
Three of anything (whistle blasts, fires, flashes) is a distress signal.
A whistle carries farther than a voice for far less energy.

## Field first-aid basics

The priorities are stopping severe bleeding (direct pressure first),
protecting airway and breathing, preventing hypothermia in any casualty, and
getting professional help. Carry and know your kit: pressure bandage, gauze,
tape, gloves, blister care, any personal medication. Educational note only —
take a certified first-aid course; hands-on practice is what works under
stress.

## The next-fire mentality

A discipline taught in bushcraft schools: never consume your last means of
making fire, and prepare the next fire while you still have this one.
Practically: gather and dry tomorrow's tinder beside tonight's fire, keep
char cloth or charred punk wood from each fire in a tin (it catches even
weak sparks), maintain a dedicated dry tinder pouch on your body, and treat
the lighter as the convenience and the ferro rod as the reserve — not the
other way around.

## Winter fire specifics

Cold multiplies every fire mistake. Clear snow to ground or build a raft of
green logs so the fire doesn't melt itself into a pit; harvest standing dead
wood (anything on the ground is soaked); split wood to reach dry cores —
outer surfaces lie; process 3-4x more fuel than feels necessary before
lighting, because leaving a struggling fire to gather more is how winter
fires die. Feather sticks (knife-carved curls on a dry stick) and fatwood
(resin-saturated pine) light when everything else is wet. Warm the ferro rod
and your striking hand first — cold, clumsy hands are the real obstacle.

## Wool: the survival fabric

Wool insulates even when wet (synthetics do too; down and cotton do not),
resists ember burns near fires, dampens odor over multi-day wear, and a
single sturdy wool blanket serves as coat (belted), sleeping system,
stretcher, shelter door, cargo sack, and windbreak. The traditional kit of
wool blanket + oilskin tarp still outperforms much modern gear around open
fire, where sparks destroy nylon.

## Cordage crafts

Beyond paracord: tarred bank line (small, strong, knot-friendly) handles
most camp jobs at a fraction of the weight. Learn five knots deeply rather
than twenty poorly: bowline (fixed loop), taut-line hitch (adjustable
tension), trucker's hitch (mechanical advantage), clove hitch (quick
attach), and square lashing (structures). A toggle — a simple carved
stick — turns a loop into a quick-release connector for hanging pots,
tensioning shelter lines, and dragging loads.

## Food from the land (know the law first)

Fishing is the most calorie-positive wild food skill for beginners: a hand
reel, hooks, and line weigh nothing and work while you do other tasks.
Passive methods (multiple baited lines, fish traps, snares for small game)
beat active hunting on energy budget, but are regulated or illegal outside
genuine emergencies in most countries — learn the mechanics, respect the
law, and practice catch-and-release or use them only where permitted. Wild
plants: the safe-learning path is a handful of unmistakable local species
learned from an expert, harvested away from roads and sprayed areas —
never experiment with unknowns. Wild mushrooms deserve their own hard
rule: assume any mushroom is unsafe to eat until an expert confirms the
exact species — there is no shortcut test.

## Primitive navigation

Without a compass: the sun rises roughly east and sets roughly west
(seasonally skewed at high latitudes); a stick's shadow tip marked at two
times gives an east-west line; the North Star (find it via the Big Dipper's
pointer stars) sits due north at your latitude's angle above the horizon.
Pace counting with ranger beads (about 65 double-paces per 100 m for many
adults — calibrate your own) tracks distance in poor visibility. Always
back-bearing: look behind you regularly so the return route is a memory,
not a guess.